APS Factory's IWC Portugieser series Perpetual Calendar Top-Quality CollectWatch
In the world of Collectwatches, function is always the ceiling that measures the difficulty of craftsmanship. The three hands are simple, the chronograph is complex, and the perpetual calendar can be called the "ultimate touchstone" in the Collectworld. A true Collectperpetual calendar watch cannot just "look like", but must make every pointer of the perpetual calendar module actually operate, so that the day, month, date, year, moon phase, power display and other functions are all linked, and all adjustments are completed through the crown - not those decorative small factory products with "two needles stuck together".
The IWC Portuguese series perpetual calendar watch launched by APS Factory this time is exactly such a "most complex watch in the Collectworld". It is based on the IWC Pu7 basic movement and is equipped with a complex perpetual calendar module, which realizes the sun, moon and stars at 12 o'clock, the day and small seconds at 9 o'clock, the month pointer at 6 o'clock linked to the year display at 7 o'clock, and the power display and date at 3 o'clock - every needle is truly usable, and every function is adjusted through the crown. With a diameter of 42.2 mm, a thickness of 14.9 mm, a pot-shaped sapphire mirror, and a three-piece stainless steel case... APS uses this sincere work to pay tribute to the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, a watchmaking classic.
1. Full analysis of functions: nine pointers, each performing its own duties
An IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar watch usually carries extremely rich time information on the disk. This Original Factory Collectwatch made by APS Factory in Portugal completely restores all the functional layout of the original version, and every pointer is truly linked - it is definitely not one of those "two needles stuck together" decorative products on the market.
12 o'clock: Moon phase profit and loss display: The moon phase window is located at 12 o'clock, and the internal moon phase disk is actually running. The APS factory restored the original moon phase gear structure. The moon phase disk completes a cycle every 29.5 days and can be adjusted through the crown. The deep blue night sky forms an elegant contrast with the golden moon, showing a charming layering in the light.
9 o'clock: Day of the week display + independent small second hand: The 9 o'clock position is the "information center" of this watch - the outer circle is the day of the week hand, indicating the current week; the center is the independent small second hand, which keeps running. The day of the week hand completes a cycle every seven days and is coaxial with the small seconds hand without interfering with each other. This layout requires extremely high structural precision in watchmaking technology. The APS factory has realized this complex layout, the day of the week hand jumps accurately, and the small second hand moves smoothly.
6 o'clock and 7 o'clock: month pointer + year display: There is a month pointer at 6 o'clock, which completes a cycle of 12 months throughout the year. What’s even more subtle is that the month hand is linked to the year display window at 7 o’clock – every 12 months, the number in the year window automatically jumps by +1. This is one of the core complex structures in the perpetual calendar module. The APS factory has completely restored this linkage logic, and the year display jumps accurately with the month without manual intervention.
3 o'clock: Power reserve display + date display: The 3 o'clock position has an upper and lower double-layer layout - the upper hand indicates the power reserve status (0-7 days), and the lower hand indicates the current date. The power display pointer actually swings with the tension of the spring. The date pointer cycles once a month and automatically identifies the big and small months at the end of the month (no need for manual adjustment every month). This layout is one of the iconic designs of the IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and the APS factory has achieved complete functional restoration in terms of structure.
List of functional linkage logic:
| Disk position | Display function | Run cycle | Linkage relationship |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 o'clock | Moon phases | 29.5 days | Independent adjustment |
| Outside 9 o'clock | Week | 7 days | Pull out the first section and tighten it to adjust |
| 9 o'clock center | small second hand | 60 seconds | continuous operation |
| 6 o’clock | month | 12 months | Linked to year |
| 7 o'clock | years | +1 every 12 months | Triggered by month pointer |
| Above 3 o'clock | Power display | 0-7 days | Swing with the tension of the spring |
| Below 3 o'clock | date | 1 month | Big and small moon linkage |
All functions are adjusted through the crown: exactly the same as the original version, all adjustments of this perpetual calendar from the APS factory are completed through the crown, without the need for additional buttons or hidden adjusters. This is the core criterion for distinguishing "true perpetual calendar" from "decorative perpetual calendar" - products from small manufacturers often require opening holes on the side of the case or using hidden buttons to adjust various functions, while APS achieves a complete "one-stop solution".
2. Fine workmanship: three-piece watch case and pot-lid-shaped sapphire
Three-piece shell structure: APS factory strictly follows the original design. The Portuguese watch case of super clone watch APS factory adopts a three-piece structure - composed of bezel, middle case and bottom cover. The advantage of the three-piece set is that it can enhance the visual layering through different surface treatments. The middle case is longitudinally brushed, with uniform texture and consistent direction; the upper and lower cases (bezel and bottom cover) are high-gloss mirror polished, as transparent as a mirror. The brushed matte texture and polished mirror luster flash alternately under the light, greatly enriching the visual layering of the entire watch.
Pot-lid-shaped sapphire mirror: One of the iconic features of the IWC Portuguese series is the raised pot-lid-shaped (Box-type) sapphire mirror. This kind of watch mirror is curved from the center to the edge, which can enlarge the visual depth of the dial and provide more vertical space for the complex pointer system. The APS factory uses high-cost customized sapphire raw materials for precision grinding. The transmittance of the watch mirror is as high as over 92%, the edge curvature is precise, and the connection with the bezel is perfect.
Size and wear: Case diameter 42.2 mm, thickness 14.9 mm. 42.2mm is a “large size” among formal watches, but with the iconic narrow bezel design of the Portuguese series, the dial appears more open and transparent. The thickness of 14.9 mm is mainly due to the structural requirements of the multi-layered perpetual calendar module – which is reasonable for a mechanical watch. The curved lugs and the appropriately thick case allow it to fit snugly on the wrist without appearing obtrusive when worn.
| Case Craftsmanship | Handling method | APS factory restoration degree |
|---|---|---|
| middle shell | Longitudinal drawing | Uniform texture and consistent direction |
| Bezel/back | High gloss mirror polish | Transparent as a mirror, no orange peel lines |
| crystal | Pot lid shaped sapphire | High light transmittance, precise curvature |
| sizes | 42.2mm × 14.9mm | Consistent with the original |
3. Movement decryption: Portuguese seven basic movement + perpetual calendar module
The best Collectwatch APS factory Portuguese basic movement: The efficiency and stability of the Portuguese 7: The basic movement of this perpetual calendar from the APS factory uses the same basic movement as the IWC Portuguese 7 Days. This movement is famous in the Collectcircle for its stability, durability and long power reserve. The APS factory has optimized it on this basis to achieve a power reserve of more than 72 hours. If you take it off after get off work on Friday and put it on on Monday morning, it will still keep accurate time. The vibration frequency is 28,800 times/hour (4Hz), and the second hand runs smoothly without jitter.
Installation of the perpetual calendar module: The reason why the perpetual calendar is complicated is that it requires the installation of an independent gear linkage system on top of the basic movement to drive the coordinated operation of the month, date, day of the week, year, moon phase and other functions. The APS factory has invested a lot of research and development efforts in this module and has achieved: automatic linkage of month and year (year + 1 every 12 months); intelligent recognition of big and small months (no need to manually adjust the date every month); leap year recognition and automatic jump to February 29th (the leap year start year needs to be set correctly); all functions are adjusted through the crown (no hidden buttons on the side).
Visual restoration of the original quality of the movement: through the sapphire bottom cover, you can see the Geneva ripple polishing, hot stamping engraving and exquisite automatic rotor on the movement splint. The balance wheel position and structural layout are extremely close to the original version, and there will be no "balance wheel misalignment" or "low-end shock absorber" like other versions.
| Movement project | Parameter details |
|---|---|
| Basic movement | IWC Portuguese 7 same basic movement |
| Function module | Installed perpetual calendar module (including moon phase, day of the week, month, year, date) |
| power reserve | More than 72 hours |
| Vibration frequency | 28,800 times/hour |
| Adjustment method | Full functionality adjustable via crown |
| special function | Automatic recognition of big and small months, linkage of months and years |
4. Dial and hands: every needle is real and usable
The best Collectwatch APS factory in Portugal has invested a lot of energy in restoring the details of the disk. The surface of the disk is made of silver or white sunray pattern. As the light turns, the luster gradually changes from dark to light, and the texture is delicate. The Arabic numeral hour markers adopt the inlay process, which has a strong three-dimensional effect and the edges are polished smooth.
Pointers are the upgrade point emphasized by APS factory - every needle is real and usable, and it is by no means a decorative small factory approach of "two needles stuck together". Some low-end perpetual calendar products on the market, in order to save costs, often use two hands (such as the day hand and a certain function hand) that share the same axis but have no independent functions, or are even directly glued together, which cannot be found without looking carefully. Each pointer of this perpetual calendar from the APS factory is driven by an independent gear train and performs its own duties without interfering with each other during operation.
5. Precautions for wearing and using
First time use: Because the perpetual calendar module is very complex, the APS factory will uniformly adjust the time before shipment. After the customer receives the watch, he can directly wind it (turn the crown clockwise about 30-40 times) and wear it without readjustment. This is also part of the APS factory quality control process - ensuring that every factory watch is delivered at the correct time.
Daily use: When the watch is worn normally, it will automatically recognize the big and small months and leap years (the base year needs to be correctly calibrated during the initial setting). If it stops after not being worn for a long time, you only need to wind it up and calibrate the current time when you wear it again. The perpetual calendar module will remember the last running state.
Calibration notes (important):
The APS factory specially reminds that because the perpetual calendar structure is extremely precise, do not adjust it unless necessary. If adjustment is required, please strictly follow the steps below:
Time preprocessing: First adjust the time to 8:00 pm (20:00). This is to avoid making adjustments during the period when the calendar mechanism inside the movement is working (usually 9 pm to 3 am) and prevent damage to the gear train.
Day adjustment: Pull out the crown to the first section and twist upward to adjust the day hand.
Month and year adjustment: In the day-of-day adjustment state, pull out the crown and twist it upward to adjust the month (12 months completes a cycle, and at the same time, the year display at 7 o'clock is linked to automatically +1). Turn down about three turns to start adjusting the calendar.
Adjustment principle: It is recommended to adjust in the order of "week → date → month → year → moon phase". After each adjustment, observe the linkage of the pointers to ensure smooth operation.
6. Parameter list
| Projects | Parameter details |
|---|---|
| Brand series | IWC Portuguese Series Perpetual Calendar Watch |
| Case diameter | 42.2 mm |
| Case thickness | 14.9 mm |
| Case structure | Three-piece set (brushed middle shell + polished upper and lower shells) |
| crystal | Pot lid-shaped sapphire crystal glass, high-transmittance coating |
| meter dial | Silver/white sunburst pattern, Arabic numeral applied hour markers |
| Functional layout | Moon phase at 12 o'clock / Day of the week + small seconds at 9 o'clock / Month at 6 o'clock / Year at 7 o'clock / Power + date at 3 o'clock |
| movement | Portuguese seven basic movement + perpetual calendar module |
| power reserve | More than 72 hours |
| Vibration frequency | 28,800 times/hour |
| Adjustment method | Full functionality adjustable via crown |
| special function | Month linked to year, automatic recognition of large and small months, moon phase display |
| straps | Leather strap (crocodile pattern or high-grade cowhide) |
| clasp | IWC original folding buckle |
| waterproofing | 30 meters / 50 meters (waterproof for daily use) |
Conclusion: A sincere work of complex functions
In the world of Collectwatches, the perpetual calendar has always been the "touchstone" to test the strength of the factory. It is not like a three-hand needle that can be "roughly processed", nor is it like a chronograph that can "just have a look" - the perpetual calendar requires every pointer to actually operate, each function to be independently adjusted through the crown, and the month and year must be accurately linked. This is the true meaning of “the most complex watch” in the Collectworld.
This IWC Portuguese series perpetual calendar from the APS factory, from the moon phase at 12 o'clock to the day of the week and small seconds at 9 o'clock, from the month at 6 o'clock to the year at 7 o'clock, from the power and date at 3 o'clock - every needle is truly usable, and every adjustment is completed through the crown. It is not a decorative product with "two needles stuck together", but a true Collectperpetual calendar.
With a diameter of 42.2 mm, a thickness of 14.9 mm, a pot-lid-shaped sapphire mirror, and a three-piece stainless steel case... APS uses details to prove its attitude of "making watches with heart". The complex perpetual calendar module, the stable Portuguese seven basic movement, and the uniformly calibrated quality control process before shipment are all reflections of the sincerity of the APS factory towards this work.
If you are a movement enthusiast, if you are tired of the monotony of ordinary three-handers, if you want to experience the mechanical charm of complex functions - this IWC Portuguese series perpetual calendar from the APS factory will be a choice you cannot miss. It is a tribute to the classic IWC Portugieser perpetual calendar, and it is also a milestone in the complex functions of the Collectworld.
